Garment #3 Flannel Nightgown – Sweet country girl meets 90’s grunge

So what happened with garment #2?.. It’s officially my first UFO (unfinished object). Right now it’s been sitting for a month waiting for buttons and buttonholes, but that post will come when I have pics. For my second garment I was a little ambitious, wanting to do a button up shirt, but my choice of quilting fabric was a bit unfortunate. Chalk that up to a (rather common?) fallacy of being drawn to novelty prints, though I also reasoned that a sturdy cotton would be a good choice as a novice. Now I wish I had sewn it in a plain cotton shirting, so it would be more wearable.

Anyhow, the idea I had for my nightgown was to do a plaid flannel slip dress style nightgown. Sweet country girl meets 90’s grunge! I wanted to do it in a red and black check (which I kind of still wish I had done), but the best fabric I could find in my local fabric store was a white and blue flannelette, and on impulse I wanted to sew it sooner rather than order fabric online. So now the nightgown is just “Sweet country girl”.

I also didn’t want to spend money on a pattern – I’m “only” going to be wearing it at home! Why spend money on that?? Although come to think of it, I wear it practically every day now that I’ve sewn it… Maybe it should be worth spending money on. I haven’t “Marie Kondo’d” my home wardrobe, so most of what I wear at home is old castoffs that are too worn to wear in public – is it any wonder I feel so dumpy a lot of the time? Hmm.

The pattern is from Burdastyle magazine (07-2013 #116) borrowed from my local library.

slip

My version

These photos were taken 1 month ago, when it still felt like the end of summer – right now it’s starting to feel like winter! I’m pretty uncomfortable with being photographed, and I feel even more self conscious standing out in our yard in my nightie, but I enjoy seeing other people’s sewing blogs, so in the spirit of keeping good karma going, I am uncomfortably putting myself out there on the int-er-net!

Fabric
Squeezed this out of 1m x 140cm checked flannelette, which after pre washing showed how NOT square the print was

Fitting notes
– Burdastyle really doesn’t have much ease to their patterns as I confirmed / found out. According to their sizing I should make a size 34/40/37 bust-waist-hips but then the waist of the garment would have been wider than the hips(!) I cut a 34 bust grading to 38 in hips, which I was glad I did since the garment is pretty tight in the hips… I think because of my fabric choice, there isn’t as much extra give with the bias.

– The cups are super small and widely spaced. I’m not busty in the least but I fall out when I sleep. I shortened the straps a lot since I took the photo for more upper coverage so now the under-bust seam sits ON my breast.

– Brought in straps at back to prevent slipping off shoulders

Construction notes
– The Burda directions were pretty useless for me as a beginner – some lines of brief text, and on top of that in Swedish, when I barely know English terms for sewing. I used instructions from SEW Sew Everything Workbook book.

Design changes
– Trimmed the cups in wide lace (which was fortunate since the cups are tiny!). I only wear this at home around my boyfriend because nip-slips galore. Now if someone knocks on our door I’d probably decline to sit down in the gown.

– I shortened the length by about 3″ (which despite pre washing the flannel is now too short) and added a split side seam.

– I also added a pocket for my iphone and a matching mask 🙂

mask

Make again?
I don’t know if I would recommend this pattern or make it again – maybe if I manage to hack the pattern to increase the cup size. I saw someone else on Pattern review made it as a slip for under clothing, and it might be better for that purpose.

I don’t think the flannel was well suited for this pattern (too stiff), and there is surprisingly little ease in the hips. After adding the split hem and shortening the length, the nightgown drapes a bit nicer on the body, as well as giving more ease when turning over in bed.

Despite these imperfections, I still love my nightgown 🙂

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First garment!

My first garment is the famous Colette Sorbetto. I decided I would try a free pattern for my first go, to see if this sewing my own clothes thing was for me. I actually made this back in August, but after wearing it a few times (and making additional fit adjustments thereafter) I think I can actually evaluate it more objectively now.

When I first made it, I was absolutely thrilled – I made something that covers my body! Amazing! I wore it to work the next day and even wore it to a job interview the following week haha!! What I didn’t test with the fit was how it looked sitting down though, and with the stiff fabric, the neck would gape open… After I showed it to my boyfriend’s mom, she recommended taking up the shoulders and taking in the hips which were flaring out, which helped a lot with how it looks, though you can see there are still fit/fabric issues.

Looking at it now, I don’t like it as much as when I made it, but I’ve been wearing it pretty regularly.

I’m wearing it with (unhemmed) Simplicity pants which I just finished, and will blog about soon…

Sizing
According to the pattern, my size is 00 bust (smaller than their sizing) – 2 waist – 0 hips. As it was my first time sewing a garment, I cut a size 2 grading out to size 4 at the waist and hips, but ended up taking in the sides to about a size 0bust/2waist/0hips, and would start with the 0 directly next time. I think their sizing chart is true to size.

Fabric
I squeezed this out of 0.8 m of 140cm wide Python print “fashion fabric” cotton, though I think the fabric doesn’t work with this pattern.

Fit changes
– Kept bust dart location (many said it was too high but I didn’t find it so)
– Lowered the armholes
BUT
– Shortened the length of the shoulders (thus bringing up the bust dart and armholes)
– Cut straight down from the waist to the hips as it was flaring out

Design changes
Lengthened the hem to size 18, curving the hem

Construction changes
– Finished the armholes and neck with self bias, folding the bias tape under, top stitching armholes and blind stitching the neckline
– For the hem, sewed a line of stitching, using this as a guide to fold under the curved hem, top stitching.

Next time I would
– Use a fabric with more drape (silk?)
– Start with size 0, or size 2 with shorter shoulders / higher bust dart
– Cut straighter fit from waist to hips
– Lengthen, exaggerate curved hem
– Try a simpler version without the front placket