Back to sewing again after a few months break. It’s amazing to see what others are making, which is why I realized how important it was to focus on what *I* really wanted to get out of sewing. Better fitting clothes, out of materials I enjoy wearing at a price I can afford, in short. After grappling with this nightmare of fitting this Burda top, I signed up for Alexandra Morgan’s course on bodice block drafting. (Highly, highly recommended!) And then burnt out a little after pouring days and weeks into the course.
Anyhow, with some advice from Patternreview forums, I realized, fitting will take years to master. It was time to put some of what I learned into practice. Used my sloper, along with measurements of existing garments in my wardrobe (advice from Peggy Sagers from Fit2Stitch/Silhouette Patterns) to make some adjustments. I made a simple jersey top (a hacked knit top from Burda 08/2019), and the Seamwork Neenah.
Neenah is a classic turtleneck dress. Neenah’s knit construction and flattering shape make it a comfortable and classic wardrobe staple.
Pattern Size Selection:
Comes in sizes XS-3XL I sized up to a S, using the finished garment measurements instead of the size chart XS. I didn’t want negative ease in my garment, as I
it’s my preference not to look like a stuffed sausage don’t feel comfortable in skintight garments. The finished garment was to be 35”, which is exactly my hip body measurement, and I kind of regret not adding extra ease here as well, as you can see the garment is pooling around my lower back.
Fitting changes made:
I noticed that the shoulders of the pattern are quite sloping, so I made a square shoulder adjustment.
Design changes made:
Lengthened the garment by about 3-4”. I added a side slit, but I think I might sew it up instead, since the knit is curling under (probably the slit finish isn’t very suitable for this weight knit?).
I added clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seam.
For next time:
I would fold out a bust dart, as you can see the fabric is folding over beside the bust (I have this problem in all my RTW garments as well).
Maybe skip the cuffs, fold over and hem (since the sleeve is already narrow)
Increase the hips by 1-2”.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Like: Finished garment measurements available. The narrow sleeves fit nicely, and I like the overall cut of the garment.
Dislike: I feel like Seamwork could be more helpful towards beginners by advising steps like adding stabilizing elastic in the shoulder seams.
2 meters cotton jersey from Minerva Crafts
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I’ve already planned a cream turtleneck top next. A great basic to have in your wardrobe.